Modern contemporary living has its own appeal to most people. However, a rest from its noise, pollution, and crowded cities is always a welcome rest for the jaded soul. One sure place to give this respite is Batanes, an island province in the northernmost part of the Philippines.
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Perched on the hills’ highest point, we saw the entire Batan island, the coastline of Diura fishing village, and the towering Mt. Iraya in one sweeping glance. The view of mountain cliffs, pebbled shorelines, and green pasture were breathtaking. The lighthouses that dotted the islands gave me a sense of peace I had never experienced before. Looking toward a spectacular view of the Pacific Ocean and rugged mountains cliffs that faced the South China Sea, I felt like I was held in a warm embrace, kept safe in the bosom of this rugged land.
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If the mountains provided a reflection of the island’s rugged and natural beauty, the traditional Ivatan village was a charming site of both culture and history. The entire village is lined with traditional stone houses. Built and designed to withstand typhoons, earthquakes and other natural calamities, they are built with thick walls of stone and lime covered with roofs made of several layers of cogon.
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One of theoldest house in the village and which is still used today is the House of Dakay. Built in the 18th century, it is owned by Florestida Estrella who welcomes everyone who visits her house. Stopping to take a picture, we learned that this old, quaint stone house is the most photographed house and Lola Florestida, the most photographed woman in Batanes.
Walking and cycling around the village, I felt for a moment back in Ireland where the grassland, mountain and sea seemed to forever stretch out before me. The grandeur took my breath away that I felt compelled to stop my bike and for a moment, hold every detail of the land in my mind where I could perhaps glance at it again when my visit was over.
Just as the Ivatan stone houses are remnants of a culture and history we only read about, its people continue to live and breathe this culture. Devoid of all material possessions most of us city folk couldn’t live without, I found the Ivatans with a freshness and positive energy that was almost too contagious. Stories of Ivatan virtues such as gallantry and honesty were true after all.
A visit to the well-known Honesty Coffee Shop, where merchandise is unmanned, is sufficient proof. Here, the honor system is practiced in paying for any goods taken from the store. Though curious at first, there was a greater need to enter the store to wet our parched throats and rest our wearied feet. After putting the payment for the drinks we took in an old wooden box, we noticed the traditional Ivatan headgear that hung in one corner of the store. Called “vakul”, the headgear is produced by the local women’s cooperative and is made out of Philippine date palm or Voyavoy leaves. It is used to protect the Ivatans from rain, wind and sun. Like foolish children, we took pictures trying it on and laughing at how we looked, unmindful of its true use to the people of the islands.
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Tucked quietly below where the first Ivatans lived is Rakuh-A-Idi Spring, better known as the Spring of Youth. The spring is full of locals and tourists alike. Whether one goes in search of the fountain of youth, or to offer prayers at the Our Lady of Lourdes grotto located near the spring water’s main source, is not important. Taking a refreshing dip in the pool below could definitely be its greater appeal.
A truly remarkable spot where one gets a spectacular view of the Pacific Ocean is the Valugan Boulder Beach, so-called because its shoreline is literally filled with big and small stones spewed by nearby Mount Iraya.
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Fundacion Pacita used to be the home-cum-studio of international artist Pacita Abad. Abad is best known for her colourful murals, the latest of which is a modern pedestrian bridge in Singapore called The Alkaff Bridge. Today, more than a boutique hotel, Fundacion Pacita supports the art works of young Ivatans and other conservation projects, a true reflection of the artist who began it all.
What I am sure of is that Batanes offers something I do not see or experience every day; that fresh and unspoiled beauty of the human spirit.
Unlike any other place in the country, my fascination with Batanes lay in its raw and pristine beauty. Compared by some to the Scottish Highlands, Batanes is rugged and provincial. With no posh hotels, elegant malls and classy restaurants, its charm lies in its rustic setting amidst a backdrop of magnificent scenery only heaven could match.
Touring the island, I was completely in awe at the majestic mountains of Racuh a Payaman. The endless rolling hills, known to some as Marlboro Country because of its wide grasslands, is home to cattle and horses that roam around it freely. We reached the top of the mountain just as the sun set across the horizon. The shades of yellow, orange and red were bright and beautiful. It was so beautiful in fact I had to remind myself that this was actually real and that I was not looking at a heady mix of colors splashed on a painter’s palette. This, and the cool mountain wind, provided a tranquil spirit for the nature lover that I was.
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As we sat down to rest from the hike up the hill and marvel at this wondrous piece of creation, a group of kids played tag. Clearly, they had mastered every inch of the hills as they went up and down its gentle slopes and wide turns effortlessly. Clicking my camera to catch their impish giggles, I sighed at the irony of it all. While we build national parks and put tons of money into kid-safe equipment in the city, these kids had these majestic mountains for their playground every single day of their lives.
Perched on the hills’ highest point, we saw the entire Batan island, the coastline of Diura fishing village, and the towering Mt. Iraya in one sweeping glance. The view of mountain cliffs, pebbled shorelines, and green pasture were breathtaking. The lighthouses that dotted the islands gave me a sense of peace I had never experienced before. Looking toward a spectacular view of the Pacific Ocean and rugged mountains cliffs that faced the South China Sea, I felt like I was held in a warm embrace, kept safe in the bosom of this rugged land.
If the mountains provided a reflection of the island’s rugged and natural beauty, the traditional Ivatan village was a charming site of both culture and history. The entire village is lined with traditional stone houses. Built and designed to withstand typhoons, earthquakes and other natural calamities, they are built with thick walls of stone and lime covered with roofs made of several layers of cogon.
One of theoldest house in the village and which is still used today is the House of Dakay. Built in the 18th century, it is owned by Florestida Estrella who welcomes everyone who visits her house. Stopping to take a picture, we learned that this old, quaint stone house is the most photographed house and Lola Florestida, the most photographed woman in Batanes.
Walking and cycling around the village, I felt for a moment back in Ireland where the grassland, mountain and sea seemed to forever stretch out before me. The grandeur took my breath away that I felt compelled to stop my bike and for a moment, hold every detail of the land in my mind where I could perhaps glance at it again when my visit was over.
Just as the Ivatan stone houses are remnants of a culture and history we only read about, its people continue to live and breathe this culture. Devoid of all material possessions most of us city folk couldn’t live without, I found the Ivatans with a freshness and positive energy that was almost too contagious. Stories of Ivatan virtues such as gallantry and honesty were true after all.
A visit to the well-known Honesty Coffee Shop, where merchandise is unmanned, is sufficient proof. Here, the honor system is practiced in paying for any goods taken from the store. Though curious at first, there was a greater need to enter the store to wet our parched throats and rest our wearied feet. After putting the payment for the drinks we took in an old wooden box, we noticed the traditional Ivatan headgear that hung in one corner of the store. Called “vakul”, the headgear is produced by the local women’s cooperative and is made out of Philippine date palm or Voyavoy leaves. It is used to protect the Ivatans from rain, wind and sun. Like foolish children, we took pictures trying it on and laughing at how we looked, unmindful of its true use to the people of the islands.
Tucked quietly below where the first Ivatans lived is Rakuh-A-Idi Spring, better known as the Spring of Youth. The spring is full of locals and tourists alike. Whether one goes in search of the fountain of youth, or to offer prayers at the Our Lady of Lourdes grotto located near the spring water’s main source, is not important. Taking a refreshing dip in the pool below could definitely be its greater appeal.
A truly remarkable spot where one gets a spectacular view of the Pacific Ocean is the Valugan Boulder Beach, so-called because its shoreline is literally filled with big and small stones spewed by nearby Mount Iraya.
Another picturesque area is Nakabuang Beach, famous for its rock arch formation. While it does not offer the white sands of Boracay or the underground river of Palawan, it is an ideal site for picnic, camping, and snorkelling.
Recently, an equally stunning landmark was added to make one’s Batanes’ experience truly magical. Located on top of a cliff with a 270 degree view of the sea, mountain and sky is Fundacion Pacita, boasted to be one of the best boutique hotels in the country.
Recently, an equally stunning landmark was added to make one’s Batanes’ experience truly magical. Located on top of a cliff with a 270 degree view of the sea, mountain and sky is Fundacion Pacita, boasted to be one of the best boutique hotels in the country.
Fundacion Pacita used to be the home-cum-studio of international artist Pacita Abad. Abad is best known for her colourful murals, the latest of which is a modern pedestrian bridge in Singapore called The Alkaff Bridge. Today, more than a boutique hotel, Fundacion Pacita supports the art works of young Ivatans and other conservation projects, a true reflection of the artist who began it all.
Many people who visit Batanes fall in love with its ragged mountains, breathtaking scenery, cultural heritage, delicious cuisine, and a whole lot more. I don’t know if it’s any one of these or a combination of all that makes Batanes a magical experience.
What I am sure of is that Batanes offers something I do not see or experience every day; that fresh and unspoiled beauty of the human spirit.